deCeeved
5.9+ R,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Gillett &
Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> S Fork of St Vr…
> Defibrillator Dome
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022. From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Access Issue: Possibly lies on private property.
Details
Make sure not to hike too close to the private residence at the mouth of the gulch when approaching.
Description
Let me start off by saying I thought this was at least a 10b R with emphasis on the R, you better be on your game to onsight this climb. As the location details, we started on the left side, going up to the horn then traversing right to the crack. Once at the crack, first step left and up, then make couple of steps right then up laybacking (LB). I had to perform some garden cleaning in the layback. At the high point of the LB, step right, and run it out to the horizontal.
Begin the traverse right in the Hor crack placing your #3, #3.5, and saving the #4 for last. Go about 30 feet until the crack ends, around the corner and up. My last piece was the #4 in the crack a long way from the ledge. I suppose I could have placed a medium cam before going around the corner.
This was a real battle of a climb with long fall potential at the runouts.
Location
This is on the South face below dark "crack" on left side of the overhang in the middle of the face. The original ascent as described by Gillett started in middle under the overhang and traversed left to the crack, a long runout. We thought better and started down left so we could sling the horn traversing right to crack with better gear.
Protection
SR + Camalots #4 (#3.5 at a minimum), RPs, and small 0 or 00 micro cam.
[Hide Photo] Starting the traverse to the "crack".
[Hide Photo] Starting up the "crack", not much of. Photo: George Bracksieck.