Let me start off by saying I thought this was at least a 10b R with emphasis on the R, you better be on your game to onsight this climb. As the location details, we started on the left side, going up to the horn then traversing right to the crack. Once at the crack, first step left and up, then make couple of steps right then up laybacking (LB). I had to perform some garden cleaning in the layback. At the high point of the LB, step right, and run it out to the horizontal.
Begin the traverse right in the Hor crack placing your #3, #3.5, and saving the #4 for last. Go about 30 feet until the crack ends, around the corner and up. My last piece was the #4 in the crack a long way from the ledge. I suppose I could have placed a medium cam before going around the corner.
This was a real battle of a climb with long fall potential at the runouts.
This is on the South face below dark "crack" on left side of the overhang in the middle of the face. The original ascent as described by Gillett started in middle under the overhang and traversed left to the crack, a long runout. We thought better and started down left so we could sling the horn traversing right to crack with better gear.