Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 169 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel Kaye on Apr 6, 2018
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You & This Route


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Description

Smooth jugs. Creative moves. Upsidedown 3d climbing. heels, toes, elbows, knees, hand-foot matches - basically a scrunchy up-side-down dance with the rock, and a little bit of oomph to finish it off. Stunning.

Start of the left side just inside the cave. There seemed to be two lines of bolts for the first half. I found clipping the newer looking bolts slightly left of the route/holds worked best.

Continue up as the route steepens, following good holds and using clever body positioning to weave your way under and around huge featured features. Some hard up-side-down moves and mantling lead to a cave atop the inside of the roof where you can rest. Then find a way to move out right and up to the lip - and save some power and creativity. TO gain the chains form the last clip is a bit devious - footwork and bodyweight distribution are key - I would call this the crux, especially if it's your first go.

Clip chains, turn around, and take in the ocean from your perch atop the crest of a sea-side cavern.

But clean falls, great bolting, and ever better holds, make this a classic in my opinion.

Location

There's a group of routes just outside and leading into the left side of the cave - this is the right most two bolt lines. I found the newer bolts on the left to make a better line, and all are easy to clip from the rout - the older ones are a bit more zigzag. But be careful because there's another climb closely to the left (sometimes less than a foot away) that's a decent bit harder.

I was able to identify most of the roof bolts from the ground, but some are hard to pick out until you're up there.

Protection

well bolted, 2-bolt anchor.

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