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Routes in Zehnerstein

Albrecht-Wolf-Jordan Ged.-Weg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gerade Westwand S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heini Meth Gedenkweg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Himmelsleiter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kauperriss (Kauper's Crack) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kurze Langeweile S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lineal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Linke Tour S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Neuer alter Hut (New old hat) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nordverschneidung (North dihedral) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oma Eichler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sitting Duck S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SollederriƟ S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zwei Jahre Spaeter (Two Years Later) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12 total · 3/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Apr 4, 2018
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

Parts of the start are the hardest. The last 1/3rd of the first pitch is quite easy, as is the trad finish to the top.
The route should be divided into 2 pitches, but could be accomplished with one if you don't mind big run-outs to manage rope drag. Start according to the description, following the crack up and to the left until you reach the ledge. Follow this to the right to the obvious anchor (located about 30 feet to your right where you reach the ledge). From here, head straight up into the chimneyish feature to the top. Lower off of the summit anchor.

Location

When you reach the crag, go to the west face (left). This route is about 20 feet left of the prow and starts at the flake. A "normal" bolt like what Petzl makes has been retrofitted at the start, which helps act as a landmark.

Protection

5 bolts and an anchor, which is sufficient for the first pitch. The easier 2nd pitch has no protection, so bring some stoppers. There is another anchor at the very top, near the giant piton.

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