Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Giselle Fernandez (2018)
Page Views: 282 total · 10/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 3, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious right-facing corner as you see it on the approach trail. It's a very striking feature that unfortunately bears terrible rock. For the true choss aficionado only.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 100 feet): Start in the left-facing corner as for Roast Beast, but pass the first tree on its left side, moving up a slabby left-facing corner/arch and past a mellow face/slab to a two-bolt chain anchor on the big halfway ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100 feet): Climb the big corner to the top of the formation. The start has twin crack systems - take the right one, in which scary broken finger cracks lead past several tiny teetering ledges to an obvious/natural crossover left into the main corner. Finally, some good varnished sandstone! Soon followed by a couple squishy mud layers. Hands, fists, and offwidth up to the final chockstone move. You survived! Belay from one of two trees.

Rappel the route (2x 100')

Location

Obvious right-facing corner in the middle of the south face. Approach as for Roast Beast

Protection

Double rack to 3" + one 4"
Single 60m rope

Photos

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