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Routes in North Castle Tower

Chapulín Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roast Beast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Giselle Fernandez (2018)
Page Views: 58 total · 16/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 3, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is the obvious right-facing corner as you see it on the approach trail. It's a very striking feature that does not climb quite as smoothly as it looks from a distance, but all things considered, it's a decent moderate outing to a great summit.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 100 feet): Start in the left-facing corner as for Roast Beast, but pass the first tree on its left side, moving up a slabby left-facing corner/arch and past a mellow face/slab to a two-bolt chain anchor on the big halfway ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100 feet): Climb the big corner to the top of the formation. The start has twin crack systems - take the right one: broken finger cracks (kinda spooky) past several ledges leading to an obvious/natural crossover left into the main corner. Finally, some good varnished sandstone! Still a few soft layers, however. Hands, fists, and offwidth up to the final chockstone move. Belay from one of two trees.

Rappel the route (2x 100ft)

Location

Obvious right-facing corner in the middle of the south face. Approach as for Roast Beast

Protection

Double rack to 3" + one 4"
Single 60m rope

Photos

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