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Routes in North Castle Tower

ChapulĂ­n Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roast Beast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Giselle Fernandez (2018)
Page Views: 127 total · 36/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 3, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is the Y-shaped handcrack carving up the clean face to the right of Chapulín Corner. Despite being hidden from view on the approach, this line is hard to ignore from the main saddle.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 100 feet): The approach pitch. Traverse in from the left (small nuts protect the 5.7 mantel) into the short left-facing corner directly below the large tree. Crawl/scramble under the right side of the tree and ramble up dirty 4th-class ledges to another short left-facing corner below another large tree. Belay from the tree or, better yet, with gear in the main crack.

Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100 feet): Beautiful soaring sky crack with hands/fists/offwidth on quality stone. The crux comes two-thirds of the way up at a short left-curving off-fists section. From the ledge above the crux, things get exciting as the crack jogs left and bifurcates into two branches/forks. Shuffle left to your choice of finale: ten feet left is the right fork (5.9 handcrack to a series of airy mantels), while another ten feet left along the ledge is the left fork (5.10- hands to fists splitter).

Descent: Walk 50 feet left (west) along the lip of the wall to the top of Chapulín Corner. Rappel 100 feet from the tree, then another 100 feet from a two-bolt chain anchor on the midway ledge.

Location

From the main saddle between the North and South Castle Towers, scramble directly north up 50 feet of 4th class ledges and follow faint trail through talus/cactus to the left-facing chunky corner that marks the start of both routes.

Protection

BD c4 sizes:
1x .4, .5, .75
2x 1, 2, 3, 4
optional 1x 5

Single set of nuts

Single 60m rope

Photos

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