Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Russ Johnson, Sept. 1989
Page Views: 247 total · 26/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Apr 3, 2018 with updates from Jim Jam
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This was listed as 11b and if it is then 90% of it is with 5% being 10d and 5% being 12a, and being about 120' that is very sustained 11b. I found this to be pretty clean, but did clean a bunch of loose holds. The start is about 30' of interesting face climbing with zero gear in about the 11a range. Then there is about 90' of 1/2" crack with some cool face hold stemming.


There is a bolted route just left of this ( rumor has it that the only bolted route at Fugs belongs to Leland). Directly above the 2nd Talus slope on the left side of the Lesbian wall.


The first placements take red ballnuts. After that, it is about 100' of #.3- #.5 with a couple of hand jams that would take #2- #3. There are constrictions that would work for medium/large nuts. A couple 0.2 sized cams are very helpful. Bolted rap anchor.
70 meter rope is not long enough to TR or rappel.


Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
If memory serves me right (TR'd this 2012ish) this climb is longer than 35 meters. Would be a proud lead. This was probably put up onsight, which is pretty nuts. Apr 18, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
my measurement was that it was 30' past the 90' core shot on my rope. It's a hard one. Apr 19, 2018
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11+ R
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
  5.11+ R
Five stars. Cerebral, long, physical, sustained, and clean. Cornerstone is the finest crack climb I have done in the coulee by a long shot. The first sixty feet or so is sustained difficulties., then the last 50ish feet is beautiful fingers.

Bring yer ballnuts for the start and be prepared to make hard moves above gear in detached sounding rock higher up. A 70M ROPE DOES NOT MAKE THE RAP.

The John eminger & John kittel guide gives this 11+ ***. I remember seeing it elsewhere as something like 12a pg13. Felt a bit more difficult then any 5.11 crack I've done at vantage. Hard to judge the safety rating..the first Crux in the crack has solid Rock but is fractured and sounds detached. a fall here may just blow out the rock. Putting you on the ground from 25+ feet up. Oct 13, 2018
Russell Johnson
Waterville ME
Russell Johnson   Waterville ME
In response to the comment from Ethan Henderson:
The route was indeed established by leading it onsight. It was, however, cleaned of loose rock first (on rappel) by a different person. We often used this method to preserve the on-sight nature of the FA leads, but allow for pre-removal of loose rock. Oct 24, 2018