Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lesbian Troll Wall

Cornerstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Russ Johnson, Sept. 1989
Page Views: 94 total · 20/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Apr 3, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This was listed as 11b and if it is then 90% of it is with 5% being 10d and 5% being 12a, and being about 120' that is very sustained 11b. I found this to be pretty clean, but did clean a bunch of loose holds. The start is about 30' of interesting face climbing with zero gear in about the 11a range. Then there is about 90' of 1/2" crack with some cool face hold stemming.

Location

There is a bolted route just left of this ( rumor has it that the only bolted route at Fugs belongs to Leland). Directly above the 2nd Talus slope on the left side of the Lesbian wall.

Protection

first piece would be a knife blade about 15' up. Then mostly 100' of #.3- #.5 with a couple of thank god hand jams that would take #2- #3. There are constrictions that would work for medium nuts. Bolted rap anchor.
70 meter rope

Photos

Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
 
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
 
If memory serves me right (TR'd this 2012ish) this climb is longer than 35 meters. Would be a proud lead. This was probably put up onsight, which is pretty nuts. Apr 18, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11
my measurement was that it was 30' past the 90' core shot on my rope. It's a hard one. Apr 19, 2018
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
 
The John eminger & John kittel guide gives this 11+ ***. I remember seeing it elsewhere as something like 12a pg13. The start is tricky and unprotected, harder then the start of SBD. The rest of the route is the best in the coulee.

I do remember a marginal purple totem placement on the section before gaining the crack. Still essentially free soloing

Agree with the comments about this pitch being long. Rapped past the middle mark on a 70 when TR soloing this. May 9, 2018

More About Cornerstone

Printer-Friendly