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Routes in Lesbian Troll Wall

Cornerstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Russ Johnson, Sept. 1989
Page Views: 149 total · 23/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Apr 3, 2018 with updates from Jim Jam
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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3 Opinions

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Description

This was listed as 11b and if it is then 90% of it is with 5% being 10d and 5% being 12a, and being about 120' that is very sustained 11b. I found this to be pretty clean, but did clean a bunch of loose holds. The start is about 30' of interesting face climbing with zero gear in about the 11a range. Then there is about 90' of 1/2" crack with some cool face hold stemming.

Location

There is a bolted route just left of this ( rumor has it that the only bolted route at Fugs belongs to Leland). Directly above the 2nd Talus slope on the left side of the Lesbian wall.

Protection

first piece would be a knife blade about 15' up. Then mostly 100' of #.3- #.5 with a couple of thank god hand jams that would take #2- #3. There are constrictions that would work for medium nuts. Bolted rap anchor.
70 meter rope

Photos

Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
 
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
 
If memory serves me right (TR'd this 2012ish) this climb is longer than 35 meters. Would be a proud lead. This was probably put up onsight, which is pretty nuts. Apr 18, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11
my measurement was that it was 30' past the 90' core shot on my rope. It's a hard one. Apr 19, 2018
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11d R
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
  5.11d R
Sent this route today. Five stars. Cerebral, long, physical, sustained as hell, and clean. Cornerstone is the finest crack climb I have done in the coulee by a long shot. The first sixty feet or so is all crux, like separate little boulder problems one after the other., then the last 50ish feet is enduro fingers.

Bring yer ballnuts for the start and be prepared to make hard moves above gear in detached sounding rock higher up. A 70M ROPE DOES NOT MAKE THE RAP.

The John eminger & John kittel guide gives this 11+ ***. I remember seeing it elsewhere as something like 12a pg13. I felt that the sustained nature of the climbing warrants a vantage (read: soft) 5.12a. For me it felt harder then red M&M's and a more serious lead. Felt a bit more difficult then any 5.11 crack I've done at vantage. Hard to judge the safety rating..the first Crux in the crack has solid Rock but is fractured and sounds detached. It is solid, however, a fall here may just blow out the rock. Putting you on the ground from 25+ feet up.

I found red ballnuts and a purple totem/red alien to protect the start well. You get very far above the last piece (red or blue ballnut) before getting a piece into the hollow sounding crack. Once you get that in, you commit to the first of many cruxs. The gear is great after that. 3 days ago

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