Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Bill Newcomb
Page Views: 860 total · 13/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Apr 2, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The unfortunately chossy, grimy lower 1/3 of the route doesn't prevent this route from being great! Much harder than the original grade, and comparable to its neighbor on the right. Start off by finding your way up the awkward right-trending weakness, making a cruxy move low on small feet and sloping ledges to a stance. Climb the sweet dyke fin and then step left onto the face. Sustained moves take you into the cave, through some jug-pulling, and a leftward traverse. Pull through this sequence and don't stop to rest! Gun it through the huge features to the chains.

Also called "Sleepy Dragon" back in the 2001-03 range before the Orton guidebook came out. 

Location

On the same platform as KaraKorum and Flight of the Dead Souls. Straight up the obvious gully.

Protection

13 bolts and anchors with chains

Photos