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Le Reve

5.12a/b, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 16 votes
FA: Mary Lambo
Missouri > EM: Robinson Bluff > 2: North, Climb… > E: Picasso Wall

Description

  Le Reve starts just right of the bench like boulder at the base of the Picasso Wall. With a little good footwork pull on some small holds to a bomber ledge to clip the first bolt. Then work the slab pockets for some easy climbing to get to second bolt. From here on it's all fixed draws(bring a third if you plan on setting a top-rope).
   The first crux is the sequence through the vertical borehole like pocket with the undercling at the top.
 The second crux comes right after. Throw high for a three finger pocket, get higher feet and pull hard to a crimp just above the crack in right of the upside-down triangle feature. Pull the overhang to be rewarded with a good right side-pull and small edges to the the top.

Protection

2 bolts and fixed draws. Bring an extra draw for a total of three if you plan to set a top-rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the base of La Reve
[Hide Photo] At the base of La Reve
Marcus Floyd working the crux on Le Reve
[Hide Photo] Marcus Floyd working the crux on Le Reve

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Go Mary!!!! So proud of you. :)

Can't wait to see an FMA on this. ;) Sep 27, 2018
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] Route difficulty rating is between 5.11 c/d Nov 17, 2018
Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
[Hide Comment] Lol Marcus, how can you know how hard it is if you toproped it? Jun 11, 2019
Willow Jordan
Lexington, KY
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I don't climb much in Missouri so I don't have the best perspective on grades here, but I could see this being a hard 11 or easy 12. It definitely felt easier than the other 12s at Robinson I've tried. It's all made-up numbers though, better not to get too worked up about it.

The route is super fun. I like the crux sequence a lot, and was able to get some cool foot jams in the slot that let me reach some higher holds. This is definitely one of my favorite routes I've tried at Robinson. Get on it! Jun 26, 2023