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Duel Administration

5.12a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 35 votes
FA: Dave Hug and Marcus Floyd
Missouri > EM: Robinson Bluff > 2: North, Climb… > E: Picasso Wall

Description

This really fun climb goes up juggy pockets until around the fourth bolt. The crux section goes from bolts 5-7. Move up and a little right from the fifth bolt and either clip #6 high off some crimps or go up higher to a fairly good two-hand rail and clip from there. Going from 6 to 7 is a bit easier using some good but very rough and painful pockets and up to some jugs by the 7th bolt. Smooth sailing once you've got that one locked down.

Protection

Perma-draws provide permanent sport clips for the upper portion of the climb. 7 bolts + anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dave Hug on first lead of Duel Admin
[Hide Photo] Dave Hug on first lead of Duel Admin
Photo taken from the top of Thunder Dome
[Hide Photo] Photo taken from the top of Thunder Dome
At the base of Duel Administration
[Hide Photo] At the base of Duel Administration
Crux is the next few moves to the crimp rail
[Hide Photo] Crux is the next few moves to the crimp rail

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Taylor Gemperline
Reno, NV
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The top 5 bolts are perma-draws, just need 2 draws for the first two. Nice low 5.10 climbing up to the 3rd or 4th bolt, then hang on for the fun ride through the roof to the top. Jun 23, 2018
Billy Arthur
St. Louis
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/dh15M5lgVc8 filmed 8/2018 Sep 1, 2018
Reid Jackson
St. Louis
[Hide Comment] Watch out for the large incut jug at 4th bolt and several of the crimps around it which are loose and could break off at any moment. Crux feels pretty stiff without those holds Sep 7, 2020
Rich S

  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Thanks for keeping us up to date Reid and Taylor. Needless to say I don't get on 12a's too often so your mention of the loose hold was helpful. Jon Richard removed it today. Jan 14, 2021
Kevin Crittenden
Los Angeles, CA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] First time on it today and sent! 4th bolt section went just fine even after whatever loose holds were cleaned. Crux is stiff and excellent. Had to extend the 6th draw just a bit to clip from bad left hand crimp. Didn’t make sense to clip #6 from the crimp rail as you’re one move from the jug at #7. Sick route thanks for bolting it guys. Nov 19, 2022