A classic wide and thick route with ice the color of coffee. Three or four pitches to the top. The first pitch is WI4/4+ depending on the year and what line the leader chooses. Belay off to one side where it angles off around 50-60 meters up to avoid the leader bombing the belayer on the next pitch. Things get steeper after this. Choose your best line up the wide flow. Belay at 60 meters or wherever is comfortable and safe. Another steep fun pitch to a flat stance at 50-60 meters. Another short pitch takes you to the trees if you are on the left side. The right side will be above the trees already. Descent: Make threads in the ice.

Sainte Margerite Headwall. This is the most obvious fat wide route in the area. Snowmobiling into the climbs offers the best way to reach the climbs versus skiing or snowshoeing the 4.5-mile approach to the cliff. Park by the dam, Barrage Sainte-Marguerite. In winter, there is usually a good snowmobile trail just to the northeast of the dam that leads out about a mile up the river.

A regular rack of screws and draws.