60 meter rope optional if you rap from the first set of rap anchors, 15 feet below the lip of the cliff. A slightly overhanging start, on the lower face, leads to a nice big ledge. An easier, secondary start follows slab, left of the first few bolts, to the ledge above. A crux overhanging V0 (10b) boulder problem gets you off the ledge, by keeping you slightly right of the bolt. Use of a left heel hook, two intermediate slopers follows by jugs that are level with the next clip. An optional second beta breaker V0- (5.8+) bypass keeps you slightly left of the bolts, requiring a high reach to gain a sloper and jugs left of the next clip. From there, fairly sustained climbing alternates from vertical to slightly less-than-vertical, and finishes with a nice exposed step up to the anchors. The second set of anchors, at the top of the line, is slightly out of sight but up and left.
The left route on the obvious tall wall to climber's left of the staircase and the cave.
A 70 meter rope or two ropes are required for descent.
17 bolts, bolted anchors with chains, hooks, and a quicklink.
Tokyo, JP
Tokyo, JP
My partner and I skipped several bolts; he used 14, I used 13. Use your discretion. Mar 31, 2018
Reno, NV
St. Louis, MO
St. Louis