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Acres of 9

5.10b, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3 from 16 votes
FA: Jim T.
Missouri > EM: Robinson Bluff > 1: South, Climb… > A: Lily Wall

Description

70M rope recommended. 

60 meter rope optional if you rap from the first set of rap anchors, 15 feet below the lip of the cliff. A slightly overhanging start, on the lower face, leads to a nice big ledge. An easier, secondary start follows slab, left of the first few bolts, to the ledge above. A crux overhanging V0 (10b) boulder problem gets you off the ledge, by keeping you slightly right of the bolt. Use of a left heel hook, two intermediate slopers follows by jugs that are level with the next clip. An optional second beta breaker V0- (5.8+) bypass keeps you slightly left of the bolts, requiring a high reach to gain a sloper and jugs left of the next clip. From there, fairly sustained climbing alternates from vertical to slightly less-than-vertical, and finishes with a nice exposed step up to the anchors. The second set of anchors, at the top of the line, is slightly out of sight but up and left.

Location

The left route on the obvious tall wall to climber's left of the staircase and the cave.

A 70 meter rope or two ropes are required for descent.

Protection

17 bolts, bolted anchors with chains, hooks, and a quicklink.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking Down
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Route follows the rope. Climber at the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Route follows the rope. Climber at the anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

AaronJ
Tokyo, JP
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] On the first topo that was published on robinsonbluff.com, this route was listed as Bathive 5.10b. On a newer version it is listed as Acres of 9 5.10D. My partner and I both agreed that 5.10d would be a significant exaggeration of the difficulty of this climb, so I have listed it as 5.10b. I am happy to change the listing if the route developer requests I do so. Mar 31, 2018
AaronJ
Tokyo, JP
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Amazing route. Nice sustained climbing.

My partner and I skipped several bolts; he used 14, I used 13. Use your discretion. Mar 31, 2018
Taylor Gemperline
Reno, NV
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Another friendly reminder to WEAR A HELMET while these routes clean up!! :) Mar 31, 2018
Matt Weber
St. Louis, MO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Really fun climb. Your in the clear after the overhang. 5.10b is probably right. Apr 29, 2018
Billy Arthur
St. Louis
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/xSv5KiJcFB4 taken 12/2018, when belaying wear a helmet for sure. Jan 15, 2019