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No Special Talent

5.11a, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 105 votes
FA: Mike Carrington, 2017
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Death Valley
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Description

There are many challenging cruxes on this one! The opening crux sequence is very sequential, and the rock a little chossy. It is highly advised for the belayer to belay right at the start to minimize groundfall potential clipping the 2nd bolt. After this, it is easy climbing up to the final headwall. The headwall has many tricky and balancy moves, so it makes for a real challenge! It steepens even more just below the top, but thankfully, once you stretch for them, you get some good holds.

Location

This is right of Molotov Cockfight.

Protection

11 bolts plus 2 for the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approaching the crux.
[Hide Photo] Approaching the crux.
Above the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Above the second bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christopher Soper
Northglenn, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I found this route to be hard for the grade. The beginning is very tricky as well as a tough crux move higher up. It will likely get easier once it is climbed more as the good holds will get chalked, and the chossy feet in the beginning will get cleaner. Apr 23, 2018
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Felt like the beginning was 10b and awkward, but the top was great. Apr 25, 2018
Caleb Gruber
Denver, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Love the face moves on this route! The initial moves require thoughtful foot work and body positioning, and mind your fingers as the holds are sharp! At the top of the headwall if you traverse to the right side of the arete (the guy in the picture above is approaching the left side of it) and climb up the flakes, it makes clipping that bolt (9th bolt?) much easier. I couldn't clip it from the left side as it was too big of a reach (I am 5'9" 0 ape index). 10c/d. Dec 10, 2018
[Hide Comment] Maybe something has broken, maybe I’m missing something, but I’ve done this route twice now, and I don’t see how the start can be anything less than 11a, comparing with other routes here and throughout Clear Creek. Mar 4, 2020
Cory Reynolds
Rio Rancho, NM
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite Mike Carrington routes. I have to agree with Geoff and Caleb. I found the beginning sequence tricky but doable for the grade. The mental crux off the deck is softened with a stickclip and a good, albeit awkward at first, belay stance. The headwall is worth the initial effort. I found this to be a solid 10d as it really stay in the grade, and I found the crux moves easier than on Reefer Madness, Ernest Stemmingway, or Hot Dog for comparison. Rock breaks though, and I haven't been on it in a couple years. Feb 7, 2022
Robyn Van Zile
Denver, CO.
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I feel like this is on-par for an 11a. The first two clips are a tricky burly / bouldering sequence and then thin techy crux towards the top. Great climb! Mar 2, 2022
Scott Kidney
Arvada, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Excellent climbing and a must do at the crag.

Stickcliping the second bolt removes any decking potential, and I would recommend doing that if you are breaking into the grade.

My opinion on the CCC 11a scale: Harder than Stemmingway, easier than Reefer Madness.

A few different options at the end, traversing right and taking the hero jug haul was my method. Apr 20, 2022
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing with a lot of variety. The physical crux is around the second bolt - the technical crux move left on the pale headwall on angled holds. It is one of the better routes at the crag. Mar 5, 2023
Tal M
Denver, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Surprised by the grade ratings on this, I’ve always thought Shadow of Death on the left side of this wall was just as difficult but more sustained by this. The upper headwall on this route is more intimidating than it is difficult. Mar 6, 2023