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Molotov Cockfight

5.9, Sport,  Avg: 2.1 from 136 votes
FA: Nick R.
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Death Valley
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This has mostly easy climbing on this one. It is a little disconcerting using the undercling at the crux, but you can use it pretty lightly with careful footwork. This is a little runout in a spot or two, but the climbing is easy. It is a good warm-up before doing the neighboring climbs.

Location

Start just right of Death of Yuppies.

Protection

7 bolts plus 2 for the anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow the route up just to the right of the roof.
[Hide Photo] Follow the route up just to the right of the roof.
Above the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Above the second bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] IMHO, the runout after the 3rd (?) bolt is unnecessarily dangerous, and you can't really see the next bolt until you peek around. Spooky. A #0.5 Camalot protects this section nicely. Really super fun route, though! Jun 28, 2020
Bob Ruzich
Erie, Co
 
[Hide Comment] There is a bolt (possibly more) past the anchors. Is there a 2nd pitch? Jan 13, 2021
[Hide Comment] PSA: climbed this route in November 2021, pulled a crimp off the wall, and fell above bolt 2. Didn't think too much of it as it was a smaller hold, and perhaps I could have selected my holds more carefully, so that was that.

Went back with a group in February of 2022 and was setting this up for a friend to try, and despite testing and choosing my holds carefully, I pulled an even larger and chalked up hold off of the wall above bolt 1. Luckily my belayer gave a great catch and kept me from decking, and the rock spared everyone below. Just a warning to anyone trying this route that there's some very chossy rock down low, and you can break off holds even with careful testing and inspection. Climb with caution, and I would highly recommend a helmet for anyone at the base. Feb 13, 2022
Scott Chico
Morrison CO
 
[Hide Comment] Another great route! Several areas have runouts, but it is easy to move through those areas if you don't let it mess with your head. Don't count on your standard edges for holds as there's pinchers, underclings, slab, etc. Aug 7, 2022