Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches
FA: Hilbert and March - 1974
Page Views: 66 total · 7/month
Shared By: Peter Cole on Mar 24, 2018
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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Classic alpine situation. Soloed this route in August 1982. The lower snow/ice in the couloir was straightforward. Found a small ledge to switch to rock shoes and continued upward. Several pitches of reasonable climbing (self belayed) to the base of the upper chimney. That's when the TS arrived. Not inclined to be in the chimneys in the rain, I detoured left for several pitches of moderate climbing to the summit.


Cutthroat Spire looks to be taller, but once you get past it, the gully and corner system on the main north face come into view. Descend to the west until you find a easy gully system to get you back down to the floor of the valley.


Didn't see any fixed gear.