Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chalten Massif

East Face Glacier - Cerro Eléctrico T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Austríaca T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow
Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cara Este - Mojón Rojo T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow
Frader Pisafe, aka Salvaterra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Granja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Easy Snow
La Luna de Miel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Gringos Standing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 Steep Snow PG13
Voie Des Benitiers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Whillans-Cochrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M4
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches
FA: N. Benedetti, R. Calvo, J Canale, F Renzacci
Page Views: 58 total · 58/month
Shared By: kiff on Mar 23, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Located on Aguja Pollone, La Granja is a spectacular route across boulevard Glacier Fitz Roy Norte. A part of the Pollone group, the aguja initiates the terminus of the long and convoluted northeast ridge of Cerro Pollone. La Granja is a good one day ventana (aka 'le peep hole') opportunity from Piedra Negra.

Descend to Glacier Fitz Roy Norte from Paso Cuadrado and cross it watching for rogue crevasses and lorry sized, ice surfing rocks. Your aim is to gain the snow field below the Aguja. This can be accomplished by either sneaking through the bottleneck formed where the glacier meets the rock apron below the Aguja and slogging the snow field (necessitates climbing a castle wall below the snow). Alternatively, one may climb the apron via the ridge. Affectionately referred to as the 'sit start', this was first done in 2016 by a Japanese team and is spectacular. It leads to the snow below the Aguja via great cracks and some intelligently designed ridge traversing.

After some slogging, thou shall find thee self below the north east arete of Aguja Pollone. The best way to continue is to downclimb a short bit north through a small notch to a small ledge. What you will see above is dwarven hewn cracks of glory, coveted by fire drakes and crack fiends alike. This is where the classically pitched out climbing begins. The original route started out left and climbed rightwards along moderate and less than stellar rock to join P3 (ish) as described here.

P1: Thin stemming leads to a widening crack. Do not be put off by the 6c offwidth grading given in the book. It would be soft 5.9- in boring Yosemite (believe me, I suck at Yosemite). Some lower angle heel toeing and a bouldery corner remain above. Belay atop a pointy flake/ledge.

P2: Hands/big hands for 55 meters to a nice ledge.

P3: Continue upwards, flirting with the arete and passing through moderate terrain, belay at pins on the arete.

P4: Climb the arete, gingerly moving right to an icy cave.  There's a great belay <10 meters above the cave.

P5: An endeavoring soul will follow the most obvious path upwards, an appealing seam in a corner. As one who enjoys easily placed protection, we weaved towards the arete and climbed it for about 60 meters. Either course will lead you below an extremely attractive tight hands crack to the right of the arete. This pitch is amazing and the setting is unparalleled (you bear-hug-fridge-slap the edge of the spire!). Beware rope drag. Crux pitch.

P6: Climb the crack and work left along a ramp. Belay here or continue across less than stellar rock up and right to regain the arete. Belay at pins.

P7: The summit's oh so close. And if Aeolus aka Padre Viento hates you then you likely won't make it past here. Smear leftwards around a blunt arete passing two less than inspiring pins (small gear additives). This is a hard bit of climbing to grade, were it next to the ground and in a place like J Tree or Smeldo, it'd be 5.9 at most. Equivocating aside...Cumbre!

Descent: Rap the route, mostly single rope raps.  Do your best to enjoy the forced march back up (and down) to camp.

Location

Aguja Pollone

Protection

Doubles to 3 with a 4 and 5.  RPs and small cams are bueno, as was having a 70m rope but certainly not necessary. There's a lot of variably frozen, condition dependent stuff between you and the rock climbing so act accordingly.

Photos

0 Comments

More About La Granja

Printer-Friendly