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Routes in Sabino Canyon

Colorado Crush T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Echo Dancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard to Swallow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heart of a Rhombohedron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kor Wall T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Control T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Naked Prey, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pandora’s Tower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sissyphus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tongue of Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yabbadabbadoo! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 75 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: SG&SP '72; FFA: TB&DA '81
Page Views: 83 total · 13/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Mar 22, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Physical crack climbing sprinkled with engaging, dynamic face moves make this one of the better "crack" lines on Lemmon. Protection is ample and fairly straight forward. While noted by Bob Kerry as "THE test piece in Sabino", it is easily protected and the climbing straightforward, if not continuously pumpy and exciting! Definitely worth the effort if you're visiting the Acropolis.

Location

Farthest left route on the Acropolis; reach the belay ledge via a ~5.7 approach pitch in a right-facing corner--you could also link this into the entire climb if you wanted; rappel the route with two ropes

Protection

Double cams tips-#2, stoppers; belay atop the approach pitch takes 0.5 and 0.75 cams; fat, newer buttonheads and hangers with links for the anchor

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Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
It Crack's evil twin? It just might be. Similar rock and character, just harder. This line is up there with the likes of It Crack, Odyssey, Rapture of the Steep, and Naranja as one of the best crack climbs on Lemmon...which I know isn't saying much! But if you just can't wait for your next trip to IC, the WF, or wherever properly-fissured rock abounds, run some laps on this very fun line. We spent about an hour cleaning up most of this climb's lower-elevation "charisma", so it is pretty dang clean and ready to send. Mar 22, 2018

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