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Routes in El Cargol

Baby Boom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fisura del Cargol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldfinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Mitica (P1) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Llepet Nicotinic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Purgandus Populus (P1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purgandus populus (link-up) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Via Normal/ La Morena del Monsant S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: M. Segura, L. Alfonso, D. Brascó
Page Views: 32 total · 4/month
Shared By: nd chu on Mar 18, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay

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A wonderful morning outing, as the large pillar of El Cargol gets first bite at the sun.

Skip the warm up, since you'll get warmed up on the first pitch! This entry is for the link up of both pitches (the second pitch is technically called "Populus"), which makes for a great 40m climb that can be done with one 70m rope (and probably with a 60m rope) since there is an intermediate anchor.

Start up the 6a first pitch on low-angle rock, hauling your way up large holds. Tap the anchor, and observe the difficulty immediately increase, but never drastically so. Mid-wall, you'll be presented with a typical thin Siurana crux. What feels like a long time after you started, you'll reach the upper overhangs, but never fear. The overhang host some of the biggest jugs this side of the Gunks.


One route from the rightmost route (Via normal) on the east face of El Cargol.


13 bolts to anchors. Right after the anchor the bolts are inexplicably close together; consider skipping all but one.



More About Purgandus populus (link-up)