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Routes in Campi Qui Pugui

Accelera Virtuoso S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Algo muy sucio S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anabolica S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cleptomania S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Delicatessan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El iogurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El logurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rodriguez Y Rodriguez S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Saiko Dase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Siouxie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toca-me-la Sam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triste Pesadilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: C. Brascó (1991)
Page Views: 16 total · 3/month
Shared By: nd chu on Mar 18, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

Pull up on stairs and hero jugs until you are under an intimidating crack in the face above. Try to channel your inner trad climber and forget you are at Siurana. Pull into the crack and make a series of sustained thin-crack moves that will feel pretty reasonable if you jam, and pretty horrendous if you try to layback/pull on the thing the whole time (as the chalk suggests many have done). Don't worry, there are some decent rests in there.

At the end of the crack, well, now you are back in Siurana. The crack disappears into face climbing on jugs and small edges. A final beta-crux will involve finding a hold that isn't obvious. Without the key hold, you'll either be pulling on some really tiny holds or you'll be going awry and heading left into a different route.

Location

Ascends the striking crack right of Toca-me-la-sam. To the right is an 8a+ that ascends through a small roof.

Protection

10 bolts to anchor

Photos

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