Type: Trad, Aid, 215 ft (65 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dakota Walz & Matthew Eckelberg 3/18
Page Views: 538 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Mar 18, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

As in, Arch You Glad we got out before that storm hit?

This line climbs and summits the western leg of the Arch Tower's precarious namesake. The rock waxes and wanes between hollow and solid, wide and thin. There is only about 20 feet of C1 that will go free. After the first couple attempts ended in the belayer taking a few rouge flakes to the ribs, we decided to check the ego and move more delicately.

Approach
After reaching the tower find the detached arch off its north face.

P1. Begin in a sandy OW and climb up to the first ledge. Follow the #3 crack on the right up to a good ledge with a very ominous block. Light is already visible from the other side of the arch. Belay takes thin hand sizes and #4, (5.9 PG, 20m).

P2. Follow up the OW corner until it thins to fists and forces a strenuous mantel onto a sloping ledge. The curvature of the arch is felt as the wall steepens above this awkward ledge. Above the crack thins to a seem near twin hollow fakes. Pull out the aiders and watch for hollow rock. Then, mantel up to thread the needle and belay on actual tower's west face. Varying size crack, (5.10 C1, 20m).

P3-4. Finish as for Martial Arch

DESCENT. Hike east to the raps of Knot in My Backyard

Protection

Single 70m, nuts and double rack from .3 to 3, single #4 (wider gear may ease up some severity in the first two pitches)

Photos

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