Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: 2016
Page Views: 37 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Mar 15, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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This was a project our good friend Ben tackled some time ago. He took a good fall at the crux, popping his gear and avoiding serious injury through the fortune of a solid bolt a bit lower.
Climb up to the crack 7' right of the large right-facing corner, go up to its end and make easy steps to the bulging wall (bolt). Climb up and right onto the outside corner (key placement, small cam, very tricky and strenuous to get it into the vertical crack correctly. Do NOT trust gear in the shallow horizontal). Pull a big move getting past the bulge to a stance under the overhang. Some interesting but easier moves lead through the overhang via a good crack, to the top ledge.


Climb to and along the thin crack that lies between the big right-facing corner of Gemini and the vertical crack of Quantum Entanglement.


Small cams for the crux. There is one bolt prior to delving into the difficulties. We actually debated not installing it, but decided to lean on the side of safety. Good thing, too: on Ben's first attempt, he fell, popping the crux cams. Had he not been clipped to the bolt, he would have bounced in a most bone-crushingly manner. There is no anchor at the top, but a large oak tree provides plenty of security, and there are rap anchors next door.