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Singing Chicken
5.6 R,
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade V,
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: Ben Hobgood, Jeremy Hyatt
Colorado
> S Platte
> Staunton SP
> Staunton Rocks
> Park View Dome
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
P1: look for sparse nut placements in the first 30'. After about 30', place medium nuts and cams in a horizontal crack. Continue up a vertical section (crux) to a ramp sloping up to the left where you run it out into a dihedral where you can find more pro.
P2: climb up looking for red blocks, and gain a ledge to the right of them. Traverse a nice, grassy ledge climber's left. There are nice horizontal cracks about 5 feet above the ledge that take medium nuts up to #3 cam for an anchor.
P3: move left from the anchor to sling an arch/hole in the rock for protection just above the anchor, and run it out to a tree 100' up. Belay from pod up and right of the tree.
P4: enjoy chickenheads and good pro to top out.
Walk off / rap: traverse right and north along the canyon wall until you see cairns, downclimb to narrowing gully, rap with 1 60 meter into the gully, and hike out.
This could probably be done in 3 pitches.
There is a good possibility this has been climbed before or free soloed, if anyone knows of a first accent let us know, otherwise at the time we put this up we did not see evidence of a prior ascent.
Location
Parkview Dome has an obvious rib going up the right side that creates left and right-facing dihedrals at the top 1/4 of the dome. This climb starts below the left side of the left dihedral and climbs up rippled rock unprotected on 5.0 for 30 feet into horizontal cracks. Above the cracks, there is an 8’ vertical wall and a right-facing dihedral left up a ramp. See the beta photos.
This route starts down the trail climber's left of "Hey Ranger!" at one of the lowest spots on the dome.
[Hide Photo] A view of the start of P1, protect with small cams in the horizontal cracks of the vertical wall then moves into the right-facing dihedral (nuts and cams).
[Hide Photo] A full view of direct route. This version protects and climbs better.
[Hide Photo] The original route jogged right 40 feet up then back left on a ledge, but it climbs and protects better direct.
[Hide Photo] Belay spot for P2, well-protected with cams, and nuts may work. Step right, and look for sparse placements to the tree.
[Hide Photo] Alan just after the crystal alcove below the start of P2 belay.
[Hide Photo] A crystal alcove found on P1. It takes gear just over the lip, and there is a great finger crack above the feature.
[Hide Photo] Looking down on op of P2. Good pro (nuts) on a field of small chickenheads. You can top out right (climber's left) of this shot for a direct version.
[Hide Photo] Sling the natural arch to protect against an F2 fall on the anchor, and run it out. Jeremy leading the 3rd pitch with very little good protection until the tree. Belay in the pod up and right from…
[Hide Photo] A nice grassy ledge on top of the 2nd pitch of the original route. Direct route is 5 feet left of this under the natural bridge feature.
[Hide Comment] I was able to place two small pieces in the first 30 ft. of P1. Route finding higher on the route may lead to other 30 ft runouts, so the R designation should probably stay.
Apr 8, 2019
[Hide Comment] There is now a fixed rap anchor on the right/east side of the P1 belay ledge. It's ~40ft from the crystal alcove that starts P2. This anchor is on Heads High but may be useful to escape from Singing Chicken.
Jan 5, 2020
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
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littleton, co
littleton, co