Type: Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Charley Graham
Page Views: 440 total · 32/month
Shared By: Dana Prosser on Mar 13, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

If you are looking for a good adventure, then this is a climb for you! Grand plan starts with a five star 120 ft hands splitter that is a dream come true. This is quickly followed by what some would consider a perfect nightmare....Hard off width climbing to a ledge about 200 ft off the ground. It is possible to set a hanging belay at the end of the splitter and let your partner lead up to the ledge, but who likes a hanging belay? The last pitch features some more wide fist/chimney moves with good protection. Top out and simply walk back to the car!

Location

From the parking lot head down the well marked trail for about 10 minutes. Turn left at a small drainage to locate the unmarked government trail that leads below the rim. Some 4th class scrambling is encountered before reaching the base. Hike climbers left all the way around the point until reaching the north face (about 45 minutes)- the route will be obvious

Protection

4-5x #1 camalots, 5x #2 camalots, 3x #3 camalots, 3-4x #4 camalots, 1x #5 camalot, 1x #6 camalot. we did not place anything smaller than a #1 camalot, cordy nice to sling the boulder on the ledge 200ft up (no anchors).

Photos

Kat A
Boulder, CO
 
Kat A   Boulder, CO
 
In early March the route was shaded, with a small amount of sun on the splitter crack around 2-3 pm. Mar 14, 2018
slim    
dana/kat - at the top, does this thing go dead straight up to the big ledge area or does it jog a little bit left into a big chimney/bowl thing? great addition! Mar 14, 2018
Kat A
Boulder, CO
 
Kat A   Boulder, CO
 
Slim - re finishing the route - we went straight up from the big ledge area. Potentially (?) one could skirt left then summit from there, but we didn't look closely at that option. Mar 14, 2018
Nate Sydnor   Moab
FA - Charley Graham and Karl Kelley. More accurate info and a story about the first ascent can be found in Karl's book "High on Moab." For future parties visiting this area, please be careful finding the Government Trail. Use the rock and the wash, avoid stepping on any cryptobiotic soil or trail making, and do not use cairns or any other markers. The Park Service does not want for this trail to become popularized because of safety reasons. There is also a lot of crypto all over the Grandview Point, and keeping this area as wild and intact as possible is of prime importance for the health of the landscape. Please be stealthy, careful and thoughtful, and enjoy the amazing atmosphere out there! Mar 14, 2018