PRINT: Rock Climb Jangling Ball Wall, Squamish

Jangling Ball Wall

5.11a PG13, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3 from 7 votes
FA: Scott Flavelle, Robin Barley, 1984
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Penny Lane

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Balance up the left-arching corner crack and sneak in the best final small placements you can before being forced into a delicate rightward move on to the slab above the crack. A few more delicate moves gain access to a significantly tamer left-trending ramp to the first of three bolts through the next wildly perplexing crystal-crimping steep stemming slab sequence. After the third bolt, top the next ramp and follow fairly obvious (5.6-5.7?) movements to the anchors, possibly finding a placement around X4 0.3-0.4 before the anchors. You certainly do not want to fall during the easier movements leading to the anchors, as there is no 4th bolt as indicated in the guide book.

You may find a C3 00 placement in the thin vertical flaring slot above the lower crack side-pull before stepping up to commit to the slab, but by no means is it a good placement. A small offset may prove more useful.

The guide book does not denote a PG13 rating, but it is safe to say that if the vertical slot piece described above pops before you pull to the easy ramp and clip the first bolt, you are likely in ground-fall territory. Further, the route only has 3 bolts, not 4 as indicated in the guide book.

Location

The route starts with a deceptively inviting left-arching small corner crack climber's left of Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies.

Chains at the top encourage a rappel descent.

Protection

BD C4 0.75 and smaller with an emphasis on small C3s and X4s. No need to double above 0.5.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Petroske
Bozeman

Use nuts for the start and maybe a small cam (black totem or something comparable, maybe .2 or .3 x4?) for the crack exit May 29, 2018

Jeromy Markee
Wenatchee, WA

5.11a/b PG13

A very good yellow totem/0.4 camalot slots into a perfect placement protects the Crack exit. Gotta look for it. Aug 19, 2018