Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dave Daly and Sean Naugle
Page Views: 86 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Mar 12, 2018
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

'Song Of The Sun' ascends a beautiful striking buttress near the right center portion of Kenu Wall. Stellar views of the Brush Creek Spires, Ghost Rock and the Kern River Valley are rewarded from the base of the buttress. The route heads up the center of the buttress, passing 4 bolts (the crux is getting to the 4th bolt). Once at the 4th bolt, tip toe up and left to the right-hand crack above. Head up the amazingly clean fist crack (#3 and #4 Camelots) for 40'. When the crack ends, move around the left side of a huge block, then move up and right. Once on top of the block , make an exposed move back left onto the face and clip a bolt. Climb another 20' before arriving at the ring anchors. NOTE: Optional pro approx. 6' above the last bolt (green Alien or .2 Camelot Jr.).

A note of caution! Although the crack continues above the huge block, it is not recommended to follow it as a finishing variation since it terminates at the base of a refrigerator sized rock resting on a small ledge.

Location

Upon arriving at Kenu Wall via the approach trail, locate the obvious corner system that splits the center wall, signatured by a huge finger jutting out at the top. From the base of the corner system , scramble up and right (3rd class) towards a gully. Once at the base of the gully, look left and the start of 'Song Of The Sun' begins up the middle of a large buttress then moves out to the left outside edge higher up.

Protection

(5) bolts
Pro to 4", mainly #3 and #4 Camelots, with a few intermediate sizes.
(2) bolt ring anchor
80 meter rope recommended since a 70 meter rope BARELY reaches the ground!

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