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Routes in Jolly Green Giant

Boat Nectar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Phat Fatty S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nah Stevens
Page Views: 138 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on Mar 11, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

P1) Start at a short but beautiful finger crack in a corner, located near several large boulders (crux). Mantel onto a ledge at the top of the crack, then move right up the wide crack. Chimney between the main wall on your left and the brown sugar on your right. Stem across to the left wall and clip a glue-in bolt for protection before launching onto the slab. Continue up the slab past another glue-in to a chain anchor.

A slightly easier start is to move left 10 feet and lieback the big flake before you mantel onto the block above the finger crack.

P2) Move from the belay station to the big ledge below pitch two. Mantel onto a small shelf right off the ledge, then clip a glue-in. Move right into the shallow corner, then back left onto the slab. Follow the slab for three more glue-ins to a three bolt belay station.

This is a really easy route by San Rafael standards, but it is super fun and well protected. It should find appeal for those not adept to the pain and suffering of small splitters and the self flagellation of chimneys and off widths.

Location

If you are looking at the formation from the road, the route stats about 100' right of the tallest part of the formation. It is down in the shorter blocks and ascends up a weakness in the cliff system.

The best descent: from the anchors on the second pitch, walk east (down canyon) to where the cliff band meets the ground.

Protection

Finger sized cam for the crux finger crack. One or two large cams (size 5-6) are nice for the wide crack. The rest of the route is all protected by wave-bolt glue-in anchors.

Photos

Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
  5.6
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
  5.6
The route name comes from a parody about a sociopathic, murdering Llama named Carl. There is a chunk of brown sugar choss sitting on a ledge just before the last bolt on pitch two. It looks just like a cruise ship.

youtu.be/ZpjyH-LkEAg Mar 11, 2018

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