Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Alex Ruff
Page Views: 60 total · 6/month
Shared By: Alex R on Mar 10, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This is a variation of Addicts that keeps the fun crack climbing up high but skips the bolted face, including the thin height-dependent move getting into the crack. Start in the crack system just left of Addicts up to a ledge, then go up the wide crack to the base of the first roof. Traverse under the roof to meet up with Addicts.

The route still has some flaking rock, both on the face and the wide crack section, so be careful.

Protection

As the name implies, this variation is purer trad than Addicts. I would recommend a full rack. I used a #4 c4 for the fist crack, though any large piece should work. Micro cams are useful for the start of the roof.

This route follows the protectable crack system which is very much not a straight line. Bring long slings.

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