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Routes in Birds and the Bees
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85 Cents T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bee's Knees, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Stop When You're Tired T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Marshmallow Max T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sex Ed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Short & Sweet T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Stop When You're Finished T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Unnamed TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Used Protection T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Ben Mason/John Wester, 3/10/18 |
| Page Views: | 1,138 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | John W on Mar 10, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Possibly on Private Property
Details
This land may be owned by the quarry down the street. So far, they don't care that we are there, but be respectful.
Description
Other than the thorn bush at the start of the route, this route is pretty neat. It has good hand/fist jams. A bouldery start (the crux) gets you into the crack, which starts with thin hands but widens to fists. The crack then constricts again and then widens up again to offwidth size (although no offwidth moves were required).
Like the other routes at Birds and Bees, this route could use some more brushing/cleaning.
Like the other routes at Birds and Bees, this route could use some more brushing/cleaning.
Location
The route is in the upper part of Birds and Bees, on the east side of the gully that seperates the two halfs of Upper Birds and Bees. Look for a somewhat obvious crack just east of a group of trees as you bushwhack up the gully. The route is immediately west of a short but large chimney.
Protection
We were able to set up a toprope anchor on the tree above the route; however, one should take care to extend the anchor over/past the chimney to avoid undue wear on the rope, as it will run over multiple dull edges. It would protect decently for a trad lead, although larger pieces (#5/6 Camalot) would be nice for the easier upper half of the route.
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