Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Drew Chojnowski, Ben Correll, Marta Reece 2018-03-10
Page Views: 175 total · 8/month
Shared By: Drew Chojnowski on Mar 10, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

This route starts from the gully south of False Tooth, possibly right (east) of Another Crack In The Wall, but possibly sharing a start with that route. The angle of the overall ramp feature it ascends appears low from the ground, but getting up to it on pitch 1 involves some fairly steep climbing with vegetation obstacles of the cactus and agave variety to spice things up.

P1 (100 ft, 5.7+): walk up a ramp to the left, then climb up a few steps trending right toward the ramp feature. Navigate around some spiky plants and emerge onto the clean slab with crack at left. Build a gear anchor once the crack opens up nicely for it (a few 0.75s and a 0.5 will work).

P2 (100 ft, 5.7+): climb up toward the vertical wall ahead, then make a tricky slab move to the right to stay on the ramp. From here, some crack systems develop on the slab ramp. Follow them until reaching a good tree that can be slung for an anchor.

A 60m rap from the tree atop P2 should reach the ground in the gully to the south. Double-70m rap was major overkill. The route and pitch lengths are estimates, but it does seem wise to split the route into two pitches as we did.

Location

Follow the approach for False Tooth, and ascend the gully south of it.

Protection

We placed a variety of cams from 0.2-4" as well as a yellow ballnut and and a smallish nut. Bring plenty of slings to extend everything.

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