Type: Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1300 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Preston Rhea, Aaron Shober - 3.9.18
Page Views: 246 total · 13/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Mar 10, 2018
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Learning to Walk follows a broken ridge punctuated by snow between the northwest shoulder of Morrison and Torre de Mierda. The ridge catches the sun early in the morning and has full sun exposure until nearly 3pm which makes it excellent on cold winter days.

Pitch 1 - The climb starts by ascending the buttress forming the left side of the couloir immediately left of the one that splits Torre De Mierda from Mount Morrison proper. Immediately start traversing left into shallow gully. A couple rock steps are passed before coming up to a 40' long slab. This is the crux of the climb. Follow thin cracks up the slab. Be aware the rock on this pitch is fragile. Beaks were key to protecting this adequately. 70m

Pitch 2 - Following the path of least resistance, climb straight up towards a headwall of rock. Traverse right on a snow ramp to where the headwall is most easily crossed into a bowl of snow. ~70m

Pitch 3 - Climb the snow bowl up and left, bypassing rock where possible into another snow bowl. ~70m
On the first ascent, we combined the 2nd and 3rd pitch into approximately a 150m simul-climbed pitch. As such, the two pitches may work as two 70m pitches or perhaps they may end a bit short of the description.

Pitch 4 - Climb up and left again crossing easy rock here and there into another snow bowl. Continue up and left to the rock. 70m

Pitch 5 - Climb straight up the ridge following the path of least resistance through the rock. 70m

Pitch 6
- Climb straight up the ridge following the path of least resistance until joining the Northwest Ridge. ~50m

Location

The route shares the start with Cowardice on the northwestern shoulder of Mount Morrison, in the back corner between the north buttress of Morrison and the sub-peak of Torre De Mierda. It is about 300' to the right of Deception and starts on the left side of the couloir immediately left of the couloir that separates Torre De Mierda from Mount Morrison proper.

The route ends on the Northwest Ridge of Mount Morrison. To descend, climb the ridge to the summit and descend via the East Face. Another option is to descend the Northwest Ridge and skip the summit. Head down loose 3rd class terrain until a large open couloir to skier's right (north) which should be taken to get off the ridge. This is very loose 2nd class talus or snow.

Protection

A conservative rack would consist of double in cams from .3-#2, a single #3, and a good selection of pins (knifeblades, arrows, and beaks). If confident on easy to moderate terrain, a better rack would be singles from .3-#3 and a couple beaks. Although not necessary, a screamer or two may come in handy as not all the placements are fantastic.

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