M2 Mod. Snow
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Preston Rhea, Aaron Shober - 3.9.18|
|Page Views:||412 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Preston Rhea on Mar 10, 2018|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Pitch 1 - The climb starts by ascending the buttress forming the left side of the couloir immediately left of the one that splits Torre De Mierda from Mount Morrison proper. Immediately start traversing left into shallow gully. A couple rock steps are passed before coming up to a 40' long slab. This is the crux of the climb. Follow thin cracks up the slab. Be aware the rock on this pitch is fragile. Beaks were key to protecting this adequately. 70m
Pitch 2 - Following the path of least resistance, climb straight up towards a headwall of rock. Traverse right on a snow ramp to where the headwall is most easily crossed into a bowl of snow. ~70m
Pitch 3 - Climb the snow bowl up and left, bypassing rock where possible into another snow bowl. ~70m
On the first ascent, we combined the 2nd and 3rd pitch into approximately a 150m simul-climbed pitch. As such, the two pitches may work as two 70m pitches or perhaps they may end a bit short of the description.
Pitch 4 - Climb up and left again crossing easy rock here and there into another snow bowl. Continue up and left to the rock. 70m
Pitch 5 - Climb straight up the ridge following the path of least resistance through the rock. 70m
Pitch 6 - Climb straight up the ridge following the path of least resistance until joining the Northwest Ridge. ~50m
The route ends on the Northwest Ridge of Mount Morrison. To descend, climb the ridge to the summit and descend via the East Face. Another option is to descend the Northwest Ridge and skip the summit. Head down loose 3rd class terrain until a large open couloir to skier's right (north) which should be taken to get off the ridge. This is very loose 2nd class talus or snow.