Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Still available
Page Views: 539 total · 35/month
Shared By: Healyje on Mar 7, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

Menopause is the steep route / longstanding project Bill Coe talks about as p2 of Rhythm Method (RM) in a comment on that route. A number of folks including Bill, Opdycke, Ivan, Hanmi Hubbard, Jim Anglin and others helped with or have been on p2. P3 was worked with Shane Polizzano. You have to love roofs as there are three lower roofs and likely 3-5 more roofs on the upper unclimbed face to top out.

P1 (5.7-8) starts on RM, but leads through the RM anchor heading right and then back left to a single bolt of Bill's directly above the RM anchor about thirty or so feet and build a hybrid anchor.

P2 (5.10+) goes up the right facing dihedral through two roofs exiting left to an anchor on the face once the dihedral starts to slant right. I've rope soloed it a couple of times so it's imminently doable.

P3 (5.12+ R/X [or at least Shane was climbing 5.13 sport at the time]) leaves the p2 anchor heading up to the narrow A-frame roof above the right-side of the orange UPS truck-size orange block. This, the largest roof on the route and the current crux / high point. We can pull to chest level above the lip but have yet to get established on the headwall above.

Also, p3 trends right along and just above the huge East Face roof line - if you were to successfully get the p3 roof and establish an anchor on the unclimbed headwall above it then you need to keep a tagged line between the p2 anchor and the new p3 anchor or you won't be able to get back to the p2 anchor and will have to instead rap to the ground with two end-to-end single ropes passing the knot as you rap and jugging back to p3 anchor when you come back which means leaving the two ropes up until you do return.

P4-5 (???) Again, the unclimbed face above p3 will have loose rock on it and given the location high above the climber's trail, you'll need to give some thought as to how you will manage that so that no one below gets hurt which definitely means monitoring the trail and possibly some 'men at work' signage.

So while p3 has a pretty scary description and is a deadly serious proposition, p2 is pretty great, adventurous and interesting in its own right if you like roofs.

And the unclimbed face above the big p3 roof probably represents the last unclimbed 'grand challenge' out at Beacon and It's there for the taking. But, you'll need to be technically proficient, like high adventure and love roofs a lot to do it.

Location

See location for Rythm Method.

Protection

P1 past the RM anchor takes medium nuts and cams.

P2 is mostly small to medium cams and nuts with a #9 HB Offset next to a solid #3 ballnut recommended at the second p2 roof.

P3 is another story altogether mainly because it goes through a very un-Beaconish band of what is best described as weak Smith tuft up to the top of the big orange block at which point it goes back to normal Beacon rock. That tuft-ish band feels pretty X-ish for the first couple of times you do it and then feels manageable R (I've led it five times). P3 has a couple of fixed pins in the tuft band, but you still need small cams and preferably smaller offset cams in the lower tuft zone. Past the tuft, it's medium cams up to a BD 3.5. The older BD 3.5 is perfect up in the big roof but I don't know that I'd trust the one that's still up there given how long it's been in place. In general, whoever you go up there with should be equally skilled, committed and love roofs.

P4 and 5? I'd keep your belayer under roofs or off to the side as we did on p2 & p3, pay close attention that you don't get your lead rope cut by anything you find that's loose, and I'd take along a hammer and a very small selection of knifeblades, bugaboos and lost arrow pins (a medium and long of each) as there's no telling what you'll find up there and there's no backing down without an anchor, but that's just me - YMMV.

Photos