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Routes in Wadi Rum

A Camel's Tale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beauty, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bedouin Bedlam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Guerre Sainte S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Merlin's Wand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
More Sand Than Stone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rum For Sail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandproof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Star of Abu Judaidah, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Towering Inferno T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wisdom Pillar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Dana Hawlish, Chris Natalie, Mark Feeney Feb/2018
Page Views: 83 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dana Hawlish 1 on Mar 6, 2018
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Access Issue: Entrance Fees Details

Description

This is an enjoyable moderate route, and if you get past the sketchy choss first pitch you'll be rewarded with a wonderful .10+ pitch of crack climbing and laybacking. The route is on Jebel Suweibit Gharbia, (same formation as "The Haj" for reference) in the far southern end of Wadi Rum. You'll have to hire a local to drive you down there, its about a 40 minute drive. The line lies in the very back of a narrow canyon on the west face. Walk west past The Haj (the south face) until you come to the obvious canyon. Walk up it until you essentially cant go any further, the route starts here in something like a chimney. We left a plaque at the base.
p1: this shit pitch guards the good climbing above it. Stem briefly up the walls of the slot canyon before committing to the wall on the right. gain a good stance on a ledge, place some gear, and make a scary crack switch into the corner to your right. follow a thin hands crack to a ledge and build a belay. the rock is incredibly soft on this pitch.
p2: climb the sweet hand and finger crack straight above you to the imposing roof. undercling out this and continue up flakes and fingercracks with great gear to a good ledge with two bolts. this is an awesome and sustained pitch!
p3: climb the 8" offwidth above the ledge to gain an enjoyable squeeze chimney which goes for a ways. tunnel underneath some huge wedged blocks and build a belay in a sandy gully.
p4: one more good 5.8 pitch up a leftward trending ramp takes you to a drilled thread belay. you can wander to the summit from here if you choose.
Rap the route with two ropes. there is a slightly hidden two bolt rap station at the top of pitch three on a ledge above the wedged boulders.

Protection

Two sets of cams to 4" and stoppers. one 5 and 6 camalot.

Photos

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