All Locations > International > Asia > Jordan > Wadi Rum > Barrah Canyon

Merlin's Wand

Name: Merlin's Wand
Rating: 3.8

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Barrah Canyon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cavoletti di Bruxelles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Desert Leather S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Drill Story S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Gemini Columns (left) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gemini Columns (right) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Les Rumours De La Pluie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Merlin's Wand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Star of Abu Judaidah, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 5 pitches
FA:	W. Colonna, A. Howard '86
Page Views:	3,910 total · 52/month
Shared By:	Dana Hawlish 1 on Mar 6, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing Details

As of May 2022, the entry fee to Wadi Rum was 5JD/person. The alternative to paying the entrance fee is to buy a Jordan Pass. If you get the Jordan Pass before you arrive in Jordan, your US visa fee ($56 US) is waived and the Jordan Pass allows access to places like Petra, Shobak Castle, etc.

At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.

Description

Merlin's Wand is one of the most classic (and thus busy) routes in Wadi Rum. Not to be missed.

P1. The first pitch is often the most difficult for parties that lack solid crack climbing skills as it is quite sustained, flared, and unlike the rest of the route it offers a lack of face climbing options.

P2. The second pitch is short, and can be combined with P1 for those with a 70m rope - a few well-protected steep moves on good face holds to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Move the belay, following the crack system to the back of the ledge near a couple of bushes growing out of the crack.

P3. Pitch 3 houses the single hardest move of the route, navigating a short roof just before the next bolted anchor. There's good pro to be had in the crack at the lip (in the BD 0.3 to 0.4 range) before pulling it.

P4. Arguably the money pitch. After a short wide section (small gear in the back), enjoy wonderful Red-Rocks-style face climbing with ever-present crack protection. Good luck trying not to smile every time you put your hand on the next unbelievably perfect hold. Longer pitch to another 2-bolt anchor.

P5. Continue following the crack on amazing holds to a short chimney/off-width and a fun, steep, exposed exit. Look for the final bolted anchor on the slab to climber's right (BEFORE the large tree).

Rappel the route.

(February 2020) Stainless steel glue-in bolts added to each belay/rap station, replacing the tired old tat weaved between 25+ year old drilled pins. The top pitch anchor has been moved to a more obvious stance at the top of the crack system, eliminating the need for an unprotected scramble up and right of the tree. The original rap station nearest the ground (a few meters climber's right of crack system) is also unnecessary, with the new bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch (climber's left, as you arrive at the large ledge that starts P3).