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Routes in Wadi Rum

A Camel's Tale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beauty, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bedouin Bedlam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Guerre Sainte S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Merlin's Wand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
More Sand Than Stone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rum For Sail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandproof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Star of Abu Judaidah, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Towering Inferno T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wisdom Pillar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: J.P. Monnet, Y. Duverney '86
Page Views: 118 total · 22/month
Shared By: Dana Hawlish 1 on Mar 6, 2018
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Access Issue: Entrance Fees Details

Description

This is one of the best routes in Barrah Canyon. Great rock and good climbing almost the entire way. Every belay on the route is one bolt and one drilled pin.
p1: Climb the easy corner to the belay on large ledge.
p2: the crux face climbing past two drilled pins. i thought the move was hard and quite reachy. after this sequence, wander upwards taking measures to reduce rope drag, and eventually head right up ramps and ledges to a belay ledge.
p3: a sweet corner pitch, crux takes small cams or nuts. step left to belay at sloping stance.
p4: continue up the easy crack for about 30 feet, then traverse hard left and do some face moves well protected with more drilled pins. you can link this pitch into the next one but you would have really bad rope drag without half ropes.
p5: climb the cool chimney/ slot with good gear to a belay in a cave. its more comfortable to build a gear belay on this ledge than use the bolts.
p6: up the obvious crack system, past an easy wide section to another good ledge.
p7: climb the funky leaning corner to another ledge. its tempting to go right into another corner, but instead head up and left onto the easy but runout slab.
rap the route with two ropes.

Location

Abu Judaidah makes up the eastern side of Barrah canyon. The star is about half way through the canyon. from Merlin's wand head south a few hundred meters, head left around a large overlap and the route is obvious.

Protection

two sets of cams from small to fists and nuts. we placed a #5 camalot but you would be fine without it.

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