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Goldfinger

5.10-, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
FA: W. Colonna, G. Claye '86
International > Asia > Jordan > Wadi Rum > Jebel Rum
Warning Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing DetailsDrop down

Description

Goldfinger is a decent route up a small (300-ish foot) pillar in the middle of the imposing east face of Jebel Rum.

Start at the right end of a ledge, about 40 or so feet right of the start of Troubadour, below some easy looking cracks on a less than vertical face.

P1: Start up the cracks then trend up and right along obvious weaknesses to a belay stance below the obvious, varnished crack (5.6, 60m).

P2: Climb the high quality finger/ hand crack in excellent rock to a big ledge (5.10-, 100 feet).

P3: Climb up and left in a leaning corner on sandy and somewhat loose rock to the top of the pillar and an anchor (5.6, 80 feet).

No belays are bolted except the last one.

Do four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar.

Location

The route ascends an obvious pillar in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum. The pillar goes partway up the huge face ands is easily visible from the village.

The route starts on the right side of a ledge system, about 40 feet right of Troubadour.

Protection

Two sets of cams to 4" and a set of nuts will do. maybe some extra finger size cams if pushing your grade.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Many glue-in anchors are idiotically installed like this in the Rum. Did you seriously not have another quick link?
[Hide Photo] Many glue-in anchors are idiotically installed like this in the Rum. Did you seriously not have another quick link?
Goldfinger climbs the obvious pillar in the center of the picture
[Hide Photo] Goldfinger climbs the obvious pillar in the center of the picture
Mark leading the nice crack pitch.
[Hide Photo] Mark leading the nice crack pitch.