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Routes in Misc

Chopped Sand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crossroads / Disconnect / Come Again T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deprivation 29 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Hueco Sport Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whoa Dude! T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Evans, Greg Troutman 2015
Page Views: 257 total · 47/month
Shared By: greg t on Mar 5, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A 'swell' adventure to a cool summit! The once feared Whoa Dude Traverse is now quite tame. The rock has cleaned up and some friendly bolts have been added. This pitch originally went down on gear, really bad gear... I vividly recall Mark traversing into the unknown , blindly shoving cams into the dirty crack at his ankles. Holds were breaking, and the feet were sandy and insecure. One of the more impressive things I’ve witnessed. ..then I realized I had to follow it.. and not fall.. Whoa Dude!

P 1: 5.10+ The Whoa Dude Traverse! Start in the chimney to OW on the right. Not too bad. Face holds make it more fun and easy than it looks.
Traverse left on crimps, face holds and cracks.

P2: 5.10+ Varied crack with face holds. Super fun pitch! Bring the whole rack and long runners.

P3: 5.10+ Move the belay over to the obvious small tips to hands crack. Climb up the crack* to the base of the #4s roof crack. Climb the crack or face climb right and mantel . From this ledge climb the awesome 3 bolt arête.
*be careful of the block at the top of the first crack

Descent: rap route with 1 70m

A 10 min walk south down the wall will bring you to Yeah Dude!

Afternoon shade

Location

The wooden outhouse 5.1 miles north of the San Rafael River bridge

Please be careful on the approach. There is a lot of crypto in the field. The path of least resistance goes from the outhouse into the wash then straight to the base of the steep ramp in the center of the first cliff band. Once you hit the ramp, hike up to a small pine with a short mantel move. Then hike up and right to the obvious base of Whoa Dude. Hike straight up from pine for Yeah Dude.

Protection

Gear: (2x) .4 - #1 (3x) #2 - 3 (1-2x) #4 Runners & draws (1x ) 70m

Photos

greg t
Chevy, Silverado
  5.10+
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
  5.10+
At this time there are some questionable bolts that will be replaced. It has seen many ascents with the current bolts and has been considered by some to be just part of the fun. All anchors are solid. Mar 5, 2018

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