Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FFA Josh Smith George Perkins
Page Views: 218 total · 13/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 4, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route climbs the first 100 feet of Crujida Puta and then continues up the face for 120 feet of independent climbing where it joins the South Ridge to the top. It is a grand adventure, from the terrific and scenic approach to the final wild exposed ridge that finishes the Castle.

Pitch 1 is fantastic climbing on featured rock with crisp (though sometimes fragile looking) edges and cracks. It stops at an OK stance with two good pitons. 10+ or so. Escape left to the tiny tree for the aid climb. 110 feet.

Pitch 2 continues up the face with intricate but good protection. The difficulty increases as the face steepens. The climbing is very fun and techy rather than powerful. Belay on a great ledge. The pitch is about 11b/c. 125 feet.

Pitch 3. Steep and engaging climbing takes you through a sticker bush about 30 feet up, then back right to the ridge proper. Belay at the base of the final headwall at a nice stance. 5.8, 150 feet.

Pitch 4 goes straight up the head wall, passing a fixed nut. About 60 feet of steep climbing, then 4th class to the top of the formation. About 10+. The climbing is fun and the protection is good but requires a little thought after the fixed nut.

Pitch 5. Traverse along the top of the Castle ridge. Difficulty is low 5th class. Be alert for loose blocks and be careful. Despite a little looseness, the exposure and position of this pitch make it a lot of fun. 200 feet to a nice tree, then walk off.

Location

Starts with the cleanest, longest line on the lower face of the Castle. Keep your eyes open for pins.

Protection

Doubles to #1. One #2. Set of nuts, set of RPs.

Photos

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