Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Larry Kline, Keith Wrolstad, Nelson Gillis
Page Views: 996 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 4, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: May 19, 2022 - Cibola National Forest Enters Stage 3 (Full Closure) Status Details

Description

Climbed 7/18/70. Per the Hill guide, scramble to a notch on the middle of the west face and climb a grassy ramp. Climb a steep gully to the ridge proper and continue to the top. Guide rating is 5.5. Summit note from the FA says “Some aid used on two pitches.”  Aid section is about 10+, not 5.5. 

Location

From the saddle above the El Tecolote gully, descend to the NW around the North ridge of the Castle (the Mummy will be very obvious off to the right here) traversing counterclockwise around the Castle, turning south below the West face and aiming for an obvious notch (as seen in Bill’s photo here). Be sure to hug the edge of the Castle on the left as much as possible through this circumnavigation of the feature, following a faint climber’s trail and a few cairns to avoid some otherwise unnecessary and unpleasant bushwhacking. From the notch, scramble downhill slightly and ascend a 50 ft face (5.6) which gains a large grassy ramp above the Crujida face climbs. From here traverse East through some intermittent exposure and lower 5th class until the ledge ends at a prominent corner with a red wall on the right and a good hand crack leading up. Belay here to start P1 of the Upper South Ridge, which is also P3 of Crujida Fria. We roped up for both the 5.6 face and following traverse making the Upper South Ridge (approach and climb) a 5 pitch adventure.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos