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Routes in Phasak River Wall

62 BPM S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cafe Bolan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crackodile S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Democrature S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
District 9 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exhale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Expertease S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forbidden Condom, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Free Papua S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gaelita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hin Tok S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hippy Punk S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hong Thong Power S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inhale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jungle Thai S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Koutoukou S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Local Solution for Global Confusion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Madagascar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maitiki S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mineral Mystic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Most....In The World, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neau Neau (North North) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Breakfast S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
On The Rock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pasak Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Protect Me S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sadao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sea Lover S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siam Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiral Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stop Monsanto S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sweet Lip S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tee Rak Soo Soo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tiramisu S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To exist is to resist S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ultimate Root S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Verdon Paradise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Verdon Paradise Extension S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Voltaren S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
You Are A Legend S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 57 total · 10/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 3, 2018
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Description

The Forbidden Condom is found just left of Sweet Lip and the rest of the right side of the Phasak River Wall. Like all the routes at NPPY, aesthetically it's lacking compared to the best of the best, but what it lacks in beauty it makes up for in movement.

Start with 2 bolts of easy flow climbing and then steady yourself for about 3 bolts of fairly difficult climbing. None of the sequences are any harder than V4 and if you are shorter, you might find the feet to be more positive, but all in all you're looking at about 15ish moves of V4 bouldery climbing to a good rest. After that, the best part of the climb starts. The next 50 feet or so climbs through a bunch of 5.10, maybe a 5.11- move or two, but really fun flowy climbing on tufa runnels. I find this section to be some of the most consistently fun climbing at NPPY. The last 15 feet is a little cruxy also, not nearly as hard as the bottom but could spit the onsight climber off. Easy 5.11 sequence but it's a little blind.

Location

Left of Sweet Lip. Look for the name

Protection

15 bolts (I think). Look at the sign at the base or get the guide book and still bring a couple extra because you're smart.

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