Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 128 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 3, 2018
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

The Forbidden Condom is found just left of Sweet Lip and the rest of the right side of the Phasak River Wall. Like all the routes at NPPY, aesthetically it's lacking compared to the best of the best, but what it lacks in beauty it makes up for in movement.

Start with 2 bolts of easy flow climbing and then steady yourself for about 3 bolts of fairly difficult climbing. None of the sequences are any harder than V4 and if you happen to be on the shorter side or the taller side (different feet for each, if you're average height you're kind of stuck between being bunched and being stretched) of the spectrum you might find the feet to be more positive, but all in all you're looking at about 15ish moves of V4 bouldery climbing to a good rest. After that, the best part of the climb starts. The next 50 feet or so climbs through a bunch of 5.10, maybe a 5.11- move or two, but really fun flowy climbing on tufa runnels. I find this section to be some of the most consistently fun climbing at NPPY. The last 15 feet is a little cruxy also, not nearly as hard as the bottom but could spit the onsight climber off. Steady yourself for an easy 5.11 sequence that's a little blind and requires just enough cranking at the end of the route to make you dig into your try-hard one more time. 

Location

Left of Sweet Lip. Look for the name

Protection

15 bolts (I think). Look at the sign at the base or get the guide book and still bring a couple extra because you're smart.

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