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Routes in The Library

5 O crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aaron's Arete T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Alpha Dog S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Antsy Pantsy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Arborist, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baby Business T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bleeding Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Corner Pocket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cujo T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Joy of Cooking S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Liken It S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Los Amigos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Modern Day Cowboy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mouthfull S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Rider T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tail Eater S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transverse to Heaven T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Womb, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Worm, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: WW
Page Views: 162 total · 21/month
Shared By: Will Wright on Mar 3, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Clip bolt #1, then start into the techy V4ish slab crux which will be much harder the shorter you are. It's not necessarily an easy read, but with the proper footwork and hold selection, you will make it to the "bookmark" crimp, at which point you are ready for a balancy lunge to the horizontal.

Once you reach this obvious breather, continue up through the bulge and under the small roof, clipping the 2nd bolt of Los Amigos (your 4th).

Eye the leftwards fingerwalk, conspire to clip the 5th bolt, and gather yourself for the final showdown with the slightly overhanging headwall on edges, ledges and crimps.

Top out with an airy mantel on a jug ~10-15 feet above the final bolt (how many climbs do you actually get to top out the cliff?!).

Named after the Pynchon novel.

Location

Start to the right of Los Amigos. End above the obvious mini-headwall, then walk right to the bolted anchor.

Protection

5 bolts, stiff shoes, thick skin. 2 sleeve bolts with hangers at the top, currently no rap rings or chains. Extend the anchor to clean or TR, eventually use the Los Amigos anchor to get down.

Photos

Aaron Collins
Spring, TX
Aaron Collins   Spring, TX
Stoked to see more routes going in. Great eye! I'll have to get on it:) Mar 5, 2018

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