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Routes in Aguja de la Virgin

Ave Maria S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0
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Type: Sport, Aid, 420 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Martin Molina, Edu Depris
Page Views: 30 total · 6/month
Shared By: Michael Dom on Mar 1, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

This route takes you to the summit of the Virgin. This is an adventurous route due to the nature of the rock quality. It is decomposing in many sections and is reminiscent of climbing in the Fisher Towers. It would be wise to bring a second rope and leave it at the base of the climb so that you can avoid rappelling the second pitch which is an enormous traverse.

Pitch 1
12b 25m

Utilize good holds until the crux midway through the route. Zigzag over suspect rock and commit to brittle crimps to reach the anchor.

Pitch 2
12b 20m

Climb through a very interesting pocketed sequence of moves. This pitch traverses the entire time. Continue levitating through the vertical wall and eventually reach the anchor.

Pitch 3
12a 30m

Take off from the anchor and stay right of the bolts. This would not be a good place to fall. As you traverse to the left the rock quality will deteriorate greatly so try to stay in the weakness to find better quality rock. The last section contains a lot of dynamic movement and is the most exciting part of the route.

Pitch 4
11d 25m

Climb past the crux to reach a crack that has loose rocks wedged deep inside. Be careful here as there is a significant amount of loose rock here.

Pitch 5
A0 20m

This is the section of the climb that was never freed. The rock quality is very poor in the last 6 meters which turns into a decomposing vertical face with a seam but no obvious holds. You will need to bring a cheater stick to get through this section.

Pitch 6
5.7 8m

Climb out of the crack and right past the ledges. Reach an anchor on the right side which has some cord tied to it.

Rappel each pitch until you get to the second set of anchors. Fix your rope to the anchors and rappel on one strand to the ground. Tie a second rope on and have your partner pull it up so that they can do a double rope rappel. Otherwise you will need to do a terrible traverse rappel that is incredibly difficult for the follower to clean.

Location

On the right side of the Virgin. The left has an aid route.

Protection

Bolts. The anchors are fine but the top anchor could certainly use a new piece of tat to reequalize and remove the rat's nest that is there now.

Photos

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K. Boyko
Where the dog is
 
K. Boyko   Where the dog is
 
Worth climbing. Rock quality is not the best but the climb is really amazing. Didn't bring a cheater stick and it was VERY hard to get through the unfreed section, rock was breaking it was super exciting. Even while steeping on a bolt it's at least a v7/8 problem, but possible... Apr 17, 2018

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