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Routes in Kegeti Valley

Kegeti Waterfall S,TR WI4-
Tour Base Ice T WI3-4
Upper Kegeti Waterfall T WI3+
Type: Trad, Ice, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8 total · 5/month
Shared By: Amadeus on Mar 1, 2018
Admins: Amadeus

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Description

This was the first year we have made it up to this waterfall. By the time we got there, we had to turn back almost right away because of time. The first pitch looked thin and wet, but the second pitch looked thick with some great climbing. More to be added after the next time we are out there.

Location

This climb is a tough one to get to. Just getting your car to the end of the road can be a full adventure. The road gets overflowed by small streams on their way down to the river and it all freezes with a slight downward slope to the gully. If you can make it to the tour base turnoff, you've done well! Now hike up the valley past the old houses 2 hours. The valley will turn left towards the south and the climb will be on the right hand side just before the valley turns west again.

Protection

The first pitch (if it is ever in) is likely to never be very thick, and so I wouldn't trust it to have thick enough ice for placing too many screws. You could probably find some good spots for a DMM bulldog or some cams if you look hard enough though.

The second pitch has thick ice and there will be no problem with putting in good screws and building a good V-thread at the top.

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