Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: B. Miller & D. Kloke 2002
Page Views: 58 total · 6/month
Shared By: Firenze on Feb 27, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

This is a fun face route on the upper left (west) section of Pigeon Stool Wall. The Kloke guidebook lists it at 50 ft, but you'll be stretching a 60m to reach the tree anchor at the base if you rap in from the chains.

From the tree anchor, ascend the gully to the fir tree, then transition right onto the face. Move up about 5-10 feet to reach the first bolt, then stay to the left bolt line on crimps (lower section) and blocks (upper section). The right bolt line is for "Walkin' on Corn Flakes," and it's pretty close to this route, so err left. Chains at the top; don't worry about the rust on the links, it's just cosmetic and the bolts are in great shape.

Location

Rappelling in from above is STRONGLY recommended. The anchors are located at 48.45205 N, 122.62702 W; there are three pairs of chains in this area, Crimpers ends at the westernmost set. The chains are hard to see from above, but they're on a ledge that comfortably fits three people, just to the right of a gully (same gully that contains the trees at the base of the route). If rappelling in, lower down the face past the upper fir tree to the lower tree anchor (slings, cord and a rap ring, inspect carefully before committing).

To reach the start from below, you'll have to ascend a consequential low-5th gully with minimal protection opportunities to reach the tree anchor.

The fir tree referred to in the Kloke book is about 10 feet up the gully from the tree anchor.

Protection

7 bolts
Chain anchors

Photos

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