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Routes in Lesser Spire

Cacahuate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Fissura del Cielo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Losleben's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normal Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
West Face of Lesser Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: J.Tylka, K. Boyko, D. Carter
Page Views: 158 total · 23/month
Shared By: K. Boyko on Feb 25, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Great route with an easy approach for the Organs. First two pitches probably are shared with "Mixed Nuts and Raisins" but as of 2/25/18 this doesn't have a topo, so we added details. The last pitch is really good and the reason you'd come climb this.

Pitch 1: 5.9 50m. Start at a south side of Lesser Spire near a tree (see picture). Traverse left across the slab and through a healthy bush to gain a dihedral with hands/fist crack, follow the crack to a giant ledge. We built an anchor at a large detached flake, but it is also possible to belay from rap anchors left of the ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.10 45m. The whole pitch works it's way through strange offwidths. (see picture) Start crawling through the boulder and head to the corner. Climb left of the corner, then straight up to find an old bolt (shoes are hanging here in pic). From here trend left working your way in and out of offwidths until hitting a tree. Keep climbing right and change to a southern aspect of the spire, past old bolts and past the old belay station. Continue right on easier terrain to a huge ledge with a tree and bushes below the obvious final pitch. While not too hard, the cruxes are all proper 5.10 OW climbing.

Pitch 3: 40m 5.11+. This is the "Fissura del Cielo" what you came for! Sustained crack climbing through a small Bombay roof gains the beautiful crack that starts steep with fingerlocks in a dihedral and continuously wanders up until pinching out. The Climb gets steep and thins out. Save a #1 camalot for the final crack placement.
Once the crack peters out, undercling, clip a bolt, savor the exposure , and perform a heroic deadpoint left to small holds. From here either go straight up on a thin slab, or tick tack through positive crimps heading right. Climb to the bolt, and continue on thin climbing to the anchors.

Rap the route.
Or top out the spire, Scramble across the summit blocks heading east and drop down the north side down grassy ledges funneling to a tree. Rap from here East to a slabby ledge. Then scramble back upwards and south to another tree with rap slings and rings at the ridge, rap SE to the saddle between ORP and L Spire saddle.

Location

Halfway up the ORP and L SPire Gully, this climb starts behind a tree shown in a picture. Before Cacahuate.

Protection

Double ropes a must. Doubles up to 4, since P2 is wide. P3 eats #.75 & #1 camalots, on the FA we brought 3 each.

Photos

I am trying to determine the chain of events on the top pitch. It is my understanding that the first pitches of Mixed Nuts and Raisins were climbed by Edmund Ward, Glen Banks and Paul Seibert in the late 1970s. Later Mark Motes and Edmund Ward finished the route (guessing early 1980s; Friends #1-4 plus small Wired Bliss cams existed at this time). They did a last pitch free but I remember a rating of 5.10+ and runout at the end (the talk at the time). The top bolt is likely to be from this ascent. I do not know if the start of the pitch was as you describe (5.11+). Regardless, you ascended the crack with no prior knowledge. Feb 26, 2018
K. Boyko
Where the dog is
  5.11+
K. Boyko   Where the dog is
  5.11+
The last bolts described in pitch 3 are new and not the old ones on the route to the left. Thought they both end on the same point of the spire.
Without the new pro, there would be a 35-40ft runout on 5.11 climbing. Maybe possible to hook your way up, but would likely break the small flakey holds. Feb 26, 2018

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