Avg: 2.6 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1040 ft (315 m), 10 pitches|
|FA:||Shawn Petro, Dave Pollari (Feb 1993)|
|Page Views:||2,025 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Rprops on Feb 24, 2018 · Updates|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
A long route with some good climbing out the gate paired with one of the best walkoffs in the park.
P1. 5.9 Climb the right facing corner. 1 bolt, harder than it looks. Belay in alcove.
P2. 10a. Climb above the belay and stem outside the chimney. Tricky. Above is easier climbing, until the end of the pitch, where an easy looking hand crack may not be so easy. Belay at huge tree.
Scramble above to a ledge below a left-facing corner.
P3. 5.9. Up the corner to a 2 bolt anchor.
Walk right on the ledge to a single belay bolt.
P4. 5.9+. Face climb, clipping 3 bolts, and slightly left. Bolted belay.
P5. 5.8. Make your way up, not passing on any protection opportunities, to an uncomfortable belay.
P6. 5.7. Easier but crunchier. Trend rightward, eventually out of sight, and belay wherever in the crack/chimney. (Handren says use the rap station further left but the pro seems better right).
You can now run to the top, roped or not, for the last 200 feet. At the final boulder blocking your topout, up and left is pretty secure, or down and right works as well.
Topping out and walking off is the highlight of this climb, so be smart where you leave your bags on the approach.