Type: Trad, 1040 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Shawn Petro, Dave Pollari (Feb 1993)
Page Views: 602 total · 29/month
Shared By: Rprops on Feb 24, 2018 with improvements by Derek Field
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A long route with some good climbing out the gate paired with one of the best walkoffs in the park.

P1. 5.9 Climb the right facing corner. 1 bolt, harder than it looks. Belay in alcove.

P2. 10a. Climb above the belay and stem outside the chimney. Tricky. Above is easier climbing, until the end of the pitch, where an easy looking hand crack may not be so easy. Belay at huge tree.

Scramble above to a ledge below a left-facing corner.

P3. 5.9. Up the corner to a 2 bolt anchor.

Walk right on the ledge to a single belay bolt.

P4. 5.9+. Face climb, clipping 3 bolts, and slightly left. Bolted belay.

P5. 5.8. Make your way up, not passing on any protection opportunities, to an uncomfortable belay.

P6. 5.7. Easier but crunchier. Trend rightward, eventually out of sight, and belay wherever in the crack/chimney. (Handren says use the rap station further left but the pro seems better right).

You can now run to the top, roped or not, for the last 200 feet. At the final boulder blocking your topout, up and left is pretty secure, or down and right works as well.

Topping out and walking off is the highlight of this climb, so be smart where you leave your gear at the base.

Location

Walk to the Slot Club wall, and continue climbers left. Scramble up to the next level, walk past the base of the Maw, and continue for quite a ways. At one point you will have to scramble down a staircase, then back up. The dogleg crack just left of the start is easy to find, as is the gully right of the start.

Protection

Single to #4 camalot. Extra small cams or nuts are nice for the first pitch.

Photos