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Routes in El Abuelo

Aprendiendo a Volar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Canal Estalactita T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Del Techo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Normal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
√Ďaca √Ďaca Crunch Crunch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 36 total · 6/month
Shared By: Michael Dom on Feb 23, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

You have two options to begin this route. You can either begin on the far left or start it direct. I only have climbed the direct version.

Pitch 1 40-50m

Begin by locating a wide crack and climb into the offwidth. Squeeze through and then climb up the moderate terrain (no protection for about 10 meters) until you get to a nice ledge. Begin moving left from the ledge until you reach a crack and belay from the enormous ledge. Build your belay here or you may face terrible rope drag as you climb up the slab to the next chimney section on your right.

Pitch 2 35m

Climb up the radical cave and make your way into an impending looking handcrack. It is glorious. Prepare to make hero moves on a never ending vertical crack. Build your belay before the crack runs out. A good indicator are the enormous death blocks above you.

Pitch 3 10m

Climb out to the right and up to the ridge line then traverse left until you are at the base of a large roof. Build your belay here. This is a short pitch.

Pitch 4 25m

Climb up a wide crack and past a piton. Then make your way to the lip of the roof and pull through to the top. Build your belay in the nice crack before the summit.

Walk across the summit and rappel with one 60m rope to the ground.

Location

18.1 is the direct start in the photo. 18 is the last three pitches

Protection

Doubles from purple metolius to #4 black diamond. One set of nuts is optional. A #5 would make the last pitch safer.

Photos

awolf
New York, NY
 
awolf   New York, NY
 
This climb is great. I think we did the pitches a little differently- P1 we did a bit shorter and belayed at the first nice ledge. Then P2 went past the enormous ledge and set the belay at the base of the crack. P3 we did the entire crack and belayed at the top of it. P4 was a traverse left then up a short face into a chimney which led to the top. Both options probably work just fine, but it was definitely nice to have the entire crack as a single pitch. Mar 17, 2018

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