Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Gillett & Younge
Page Views: 97 total · 10/month
Shared By: Aaron Johnston on Feb 22, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is a wide variety pack. Start with about 30 feet of #6 Camalot in a corner. Don't worry, you don't need multiple #6s as there are gear opportunities in a seam out right as well as deeper in the crack. Finish this section, and work up into a tight full body chimney. This section doesn't get much pro but is very secure and goes at 5.7. The exit moves can be protected. Finish on a beautiful, wide hands/#3 Camalot crack to a ledge, and build a belay.

Location

This is on the far right side of the Third Band. It is probably best to approach from the left via Third Class scrambling. It is hard to see the climb from directly below; however, the 5.10 corner crack is very obvious, and this line is just to the right of that.

Protection

A standard rack with a #6. Maybe throw in an extra #3.

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