PRINT: Rock Climb Capital Punishment, Golden

Capital Punishment

5.13a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 24 votes
FA: Kevin Capps, Matt Lloyd, 2016
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Capitalist Crag > Upper Capitalist Crag

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Description

Climb the moderate face to a rest, then pull a juggy roof move to find yourself at the start of the crux. Enjoy hard climbing on the arete for the second half.

Location

This is the first route left of Free Enterprise.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling the roof.

Mid-crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

A C
Your moms house

A hard move. Sep 17, 2018

Dan Maynard
Denver, CO

5.13-

Fun climbing with a stopper move at the crux. Foot beta is key. I believe there are multiple sequences that will work, but some I tried were definitely harder than 13a. The real redpoint crux was a 12- move at the very top. Thanks to Kevin for another really good line in CCC. Nov 21, 2018

Ajay Francis
Baltimore, MD

5.13a

Great climb. Good for people who are breaking into 5.13. Feb 1, 2021

Henry Walker

5.13-

Beta alert!

After playing around with the crux, I ended up finding that a lockoff with a hand heel match from a crack to the right of the jugs was more consistent and more fun - thereby skipping the arete. If it weren't for the slightly chossy roof and easy start, this route would be 4 stars. Also, that 12- move near the end definitely packs a punch after the crux! May 30, 2022

Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado

5.13a

I think Henry means left of the jugs. This beta is more fun but feels completely spanned out at 5'11".

The last bolt in the slab is looking pretty bad. The hanger is spinning, it’s about a half inch from the wall, and it resisted any tightening with a wrench. Oct 25, 2024

Chris Callahan
Denver, CO

This route is getting all sorts of updates this week. Today, the bolts on the upper half were replaced with SS glue-ins. The anchor was also upgraded to 1/2" SS sleeve bolts and Mussys. All hardware was provided by the BCC. Those bomber draws were put back onto the new bolts.

We ran out of light to do the bottom but will make it back there soon to replace those bolts as well.

Edit - Got back today and replaced the final 4 bolts. This climb now has all SS glue ins. Dec 20, 2024

Theo S

Thank you for replacing the bolts! Sent this morning in crisp 40 degree weather with some cold cold rock, numbed out after the crux but cranked and stayed on! Dec 26, 2024