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Routes in Valnontey

L' Acheronte WI3
Patri WI4
Valminana WI3+
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Type: Ice, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: G.C. Grassi, P. Marchisio (20.03.1985)
Page Views: 9 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Liebling on Feb 21, 2018
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

One of the classic's of Cogne and often exceedingly hooked/stepped. Very popular with guided groups, expect crowds, especially at the bottleneck of P4.

P1 - A wide ice flow which can be climbed on either the left (easier) or right (steeper). Belay from one of a number of bolted anchors on either the left or right.

P2 - A short but steep ice fall which can also be bypassed via snow on the right. Belay on bolts

P3 - A very short and slightly easier (70°) wall. Belay from bolts or screws above.

This leads to the large snow field from which one walks off. From here there are three options:

On the right is Patri Right - A single pitch of sustained steep ice

In the center a difficult pillar (rarely in)

On the left the standard last two pitches of Patri:

P4 - Wide wall(70°-85° - easier on left, harder on right) leading to a number of bolted belays

P5 - A lower angle, but very narrow gully

Location

On the right side of the valley (when looking down valley) towards town, so on the left when approaching. P1 gets some sun as do the top pitches.

Approach:

About two thirds down the valley, stay on the left side and eventually a signed path will lead left and up towards the dual falls of Patri and L'Acheronte.

Gear can be left around the rock climber's left of the first pitch, as it is easy to return there during the descent.

Descent: Rap to the big snow field between pitches 3 and 4 then walk off down and skier's right. Follow what is usually a very well-broken trail and eventually come out in a gully next to the route's start. Cut left back to the base to collect gear as needed.

Protection

Fixed anchors, though the anchor on top of P3 can be hard to find (many people end up anchoring on screws for that pitch)

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