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Routes in Valeille East
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Attacco Diretto for Pattinaggio Artistico M6 PG13 |
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Hard ice in the rock WI4 |
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Lillaz Gully T WI4 M4 |
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Molina WI3 |
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Pattinaggio Artistico WI3+ |
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Stella Artice WI5 |
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| Type: | Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | G.C. Grassi, N. Margaria (06.01.1986) |
| Page Views: | 568 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Liebling on Feb 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
P1. 60°-70° ice leads to a fixed belay to the right of P2.
P2. The crux of the route: a short vertical wall, and of a following easier 65° section. Belay to the left on rock or link with P3.
P3. Easy transfer ramp to the right. Belay to the left on rock or on screws at the base of P4.
P4. A steady 60°-70° wall. Belay on screws.
P5. Ice steps through bushes and rock. Final belay off of a tree.
P2. The crux of the route: a short vertical wall, and of a following easier 65° section. Belay to the left on rock or link with P3.
P3. Easy transfer ramp to the right. Belay to the left on rock or on screws at the base of P4.
P4. A steady 60°-70° wall. Belay on screws.
P5. Ice steps through bushes and rock. Final belay off of a tree.
Location
Approach:
Head on the trail to Valeille and turn left to cross the cross-country skiing track. Follow pathes up and left until you see the dual icefalls of Pattinaggio Artistico and Hard Rock In The Ice on your left. Below or just past them you should find a clear climbers trail leading up towards them. Follow this path as it crossed back left of the falls and ascends a steep section around the corner from Pattinaggio Artistico Direct. This will end in a bolted anchor with a knotted ropehanging from it. Rope up here then descend a short rocky section and traverse right to bolted anchors at the base of the first pitch.
If you are leaving anything (backpacks, poles, etc...) behind, it is recommended to do so at the base of Pattinaggio Artistico Direct (before heading up the steep section to the start of Pattinaggio Artistico).
Descent:
From the top, follow a steep trail down and skiers right through the trees. It will eventually lead to the snow gully next to Pattinaggio Artistico.
Head on the trail to Valeille and turn left to cross the cross-country skiing track. Follow pathes up and left until you see the dual icefalls of Pattinaggio Artistico and Hard Rock In The Ice on your left. Below or just past them you should find a clear climbers trail leading up towards them. Follow this path as it crossed back left of the falls and ascends a steep section around the corner from Pattinaggio Artistico Direct. This will end in a bolted anchor with a knotted ropehanging from it. Rope up here then descend a short rocky section and traverse right to bolted anchors at the base of the first pitch.
If you are leaving anything (backpacks, poles, etc...) behind, it is recommended to do so at the base of Pattinaggio Artistico Direct (before heading up the steep section to the start of Pattinaggio Artistico).
Descent:
From the top, follow a steep trail down and skiers right through the trees. It will eventually lead to the snow gully next to Pattinaggio Artistico.
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